90 gallon 3D background

[SteveScheuring]

I am about to build a 3d background for my new 90 gallon tank.  I bought supplies yesterday based on a materials list from a website Dramatic AquaScapes.  It seems fairly easy but time consuming. 

Does anyone have any suggestions before I get started?  Looking forward to hearing some of your successes.

[Regalblue]

I'd suggest reading through Steve Clark's previous 3D posts & PMing him if you have further questions. 

[Steve]

I'd be happy to offer some advice, I've done a good number of them myself. Just walking out the door right now but later this evening when I have some more free time I'll jump on and give ya some of the tips I have learned doing mine.

[SteveScheuring]

Thank you.  As I stated, I have already bought the majority of the materials.  I am attempting to make a slate or stacked rock appearance.  Last night, I cut and formed a number of pieces.  I think I am almost over half way completed with the number of the fake rocks.  They look pretty cool, even if they are pink.  I hope to have the rest formed over the weekend. 

Thanks again and I look forward to any words of advise!

[Steve]

Got a bit of time now.

It's not all that hard per say, it just takes a bit of creativeness/artistry to get it looking realistic, plus a pretty good deal of time as well.

I looked at the website you mentioned. One thing I will highly advise is to not use cement as they show on that site. Cement covered backgrounds were how people started out doing them years ago, but it's become a somewhat outdated way of coating them. Cement is very messy and also tends to crack after a period of time underwater when done in thin thicknesses which is required on a background. Drylok is the way to go now. It's very easy to use and much cleaner, plus when when coated with a fish safe two part epoxy such as Pond Armor it will easily last 10 yrs or more.

Make sure to only use GE Silicone I*  Anything else such as Ge II* will have mildewcides which are not fish safe.

Pick up a drywall screen mesh scraper. That's the tool I use probably 80% of the time and it makes it a lot easier to get the natural looking textures and shapes of real rock. I usually start a rough cut with a 9" fillet knife then go and finish shape it with the mesh scraper.

Also pick up a heat gun from somewhere such as Harbor freight (about $12). When you go over the foam with the heat gun after you are finished shaping it will add a very natural rock like texture to the foam which also aids in making your white edges look better when dry brushing the worn down edge look that is common in nature.

I've also been doing a two part epoxy sealer (Pond Armor) on the last four or five backgrounds I have done. It's not cheap ($75 for a quart & half kit) but it adds a huge amount of durability to the background and is well worth the money it costs.

[SteveScheuring]

Great advise!  I will return the cement, coloring and other materials and purchase the Drylok.  Is there a particular type of Drylok that you suggest?  I found multiple types and price ranges when searching the internet.  I will also pick up the heat gun.  The drywall scraper was very useful!

Progress update:
The background is formed and stacked in the tank.  I have a few minor adjustments to make but I think it looks pretty good. 

Thanks again for your assistance!

[Steve]

I use UGL brand Drylok in Gray. It comes in two colors, Gray and White. The Gray is nice because it is a nice natural rock colored Gray so I use that as my main rock color and then just dry brush the accents with fusion plastic paints which are fish safe when dry.

You could still use the cement tint jars if you wanted too. You would just have to get the white drylok and then you could tint them with your concrete tint. Some peole do them that way, I prefer gray with fusion paints myself, but it's just personal preference more than anything else.

Post up some pics when you get a chance.

[SteveScheuring]

I have finished applying 2 coats of gray Drylok with a 3rd coat with charcoal cement coloring in it.  They look pretty good in my opinion.  Last night, I glued them in place with the Silicone.  I will be adding water tonight and see how it does.  I would add pictures but I seem unable to add/insert them.  Anyone have any suggestions?

Also, the silicone (GE Silicone I - clear) says that it is not to be used under the waterline or in aquariums.  Is this a problem?  Should I have used a different type? 

[Steve]

Last night, I glued them in place with the Silicone.  I will be adding water tonight and see how it does.

Let it sit for about 3 days to off gas as well as cure before you add any water. After 3 days then fill it and let it sit overnight, then drain it and refill and you are ready to start cycling.

Also, the silicone (GE Silicone I - clear) says that it is not to be used under the waterline or in aquariums.  Is this a problem?

No problems at all. They simply do that because it is not actually sold as an aquarium sealant so they have to put that on the tube just to cover themselves, even though it is exactly the same thing factory aquariums are sealed with. Just something they put on the tube to avoid problems, kind'a like commercials with the warning "Professional driver on closed course do not attempt"". Know what I mean.

I would add pictures but I seem unable to add/insert them.  Anyone have any suggestions?

Resize your pic and upload it to somewhere such as Imageshack which is free. Once you upload the pic to Imageshack then click on the tag that says "get IMG tag". A box will pop up with the IMG tag, highlight that and then when you make a post "paste" (CTRL & V) the tag in the post and then when you preview your post the pic will show up.

[SteveScheuring]

Well, I had a setback!  3 days ago, I used the silicone to hold the background in place.  Last nigh, I filled it with water.  Obviously, I did not use enough and after about 2 hours if filling the tank it popped off.  In the process, it broke the center piece of glass holding the center of the tank together. 

Now I have to get a new piece of glass and silicone it in place.  Once that is dry, I have to test it for leaks again.  Then I can try to put the background back into place.  This will put me back a week or so.

On a good not, it looked fairly real and good!  I am excited to get it going.  Once it is, I'll attempt to get some pictures up!