Michigan Cichlid Association
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Ron on April 03, 2015, 10:18:43 AM
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I got the itch to get a water test kit recently after doing with a DIY sump that I keep adding more and more media to as I found extra available. The only definitive way to tell if I really had more than enough media was to test parameters.
The last time I'd ever bothered with testing was all the way back in my early high school years when I setup my first african cichlid tank. Since then I've never really felt the need to test again (until now). Once you get a good handle on the ideas behind keeping cichlids - good water source, overfiltering tanks, and sufficient water changes. If something goes astray, the water clarity and fish will let you know.
Anyways, I finally got around to testing my big tank today while doing a water change. Before anyone's concerned, the testing was performed while watching it drain; not while filling it up. ;)
API master test kit; dates on test solutions were good through 2019.
Nitrite - I skipped the ammonia testing, as the tank has been running since November, so if there was any ammonia, there was also very likely to be nitrite.
Results: 0ppm (accuracy was within 1/4ppm)
Thoughts: As expected
pH - I realized almost immediately this was a worthless test, as there was a specific "High pH" test bottle as well.
Results: Off the chart
Thoughts: LOL
High pH - My recollection from many, many years ago when I last had my water source tested was that the LFS said it was above 7.8, but didn't want to give me a specific number and said it was definitely sufficient for african cichlids. This test kit had better accuracy.
Results: 8.2 (accuracy within 0.2)
Thoughts: I'm not surprised and pleased with the results.
Nitrate - This is the one I was really interested in the most. I'm doing somewhere right around weekly water changes of ~17-20%. There's a lot of fish in the tank and I feel like I'm feeding a pond of bluegills tossing in food 1-2 times per day. I keep reading different target values for what is sufficient vs what is good vs what is best, etc, and wasn't sure where this was really going to end up.
Results: 0ppm (accuracy within 5ppm)
Thoughts: The color wasn't anywhere close to anything other than 0, but I really expected this would have had a measurable value. I do have some good bio going, but didn't think I'd have sufficient amount of anaerobic bacteria to consume sufficient amounts of nitrate.
Could I have goofed the nitrate testing up? It seemed pretty fool proof to mix X drops of solution #1 and then X drops of solution #2, mix, and watch the resulting color. I even let it sit for another 5 minutes or so and the color was stable. On the bright side, it didn't register some ridiculously high number I suppose.
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The nitrate solution tends to settle. Did you shake the shit out of it before dripping in the tube?
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Even in my tank with plants I never get a zero nitrate reading Ron. Did you try testing any other tanks? You know, something slightly smaller LOL.
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I must have missed the "shake the shit out of it" portion of the directions. ??? :-\ :(
Sounds like a retest is in order.
I was planning to test some of the other tanks as well just for kicks, but haven't gotten around to that yet. I'm looking forward to comparing and contrasting the results, once I'm certain I'm getting accurate results, lol.
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Yep, it's not in the directions. Depending on how long it's sat around, I'd even go as far as smacking the bottom corners on a table before shaking the shit out of it.
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I do close to ten water tests a day at Preuss, so I can confirm; Nitrate test part 2 Contains Zinc, which will settle. The time doesn't matter though, as it will likely all settle in a matter of hours.
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For nitrate test part 2, after it has been shaken enough does it still come out as bright yellow or is the color different once the zinc is suspended throughout?
Never mind - it's the first bottle that is yellow and the second bottle is a clear solution.
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OK, this time with the recommended shaking the test registered nitrates. I also noticed that the accuracy levels of the test get worse the higher the value. Test results were ~40ppm. Not necessarily unexpected, but I didn't have the brief moment of jubilation when the first test results came up as 0ppm.
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Ron do you run carbon in that tank?
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I hardly ever test for anything besides nitrate. pH doesn't change much and ammonia and nitrite are always nil.
I have found that if you test regularly a nice investment is an orbital vortex mixer. Great for "shaking the shit out" of your (capped) test tubes and test solutions. I picked a nice used one up off Ebay for $30 - specifically for this nitrate test.
Also, if you have a small graduated syringe you can economize your testing solution by scaling back the quantities. For example, the nitrate test calls for 5.0 mL tank water + 10 drops #1 + 10 drops of #2. If instead however, you use 2.0 mL's of tank water you only need 4 drops of each for the same result.
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Ron do you run carbon in that tank?
My understanding is that carbon's only real significant use is to bind with organics. For removing medications or dealing with stained water, I would run carbon. Otherwise I do not. Currently I don't run carbon in any of my tanks.
I hardly ever test for anything besides nitrate. pH doesn't change much and ammonia and nitrite are always nil.
I have found that if you test regularly a nice investment is an orbital vortex mixer. Great for "shaking the shit out" of your (capped) test tubes and test solutions. I picked a nice used one up off Ebay for $30 - specifically for this nitrate test.
Also, if you have a small graduated syringe you can economize your testing solution by scaling back the quantities. For example, the nitrate test calls for 5.0 mL tank water + 10 drops #1 + 10 drops of #2. If instead however, you use 2.0 mL's of tank water you only need 4 drops of each for the same result.
I hadn't really thought about scaling back on the quantities, but had considered how annoying it'll be once I run out of the nitrate test solutions. Being the primary test I'm interested in and needing the greatest doses, it's definitely the first that will run out. Getting a graduated cylinder to scale back the test dosage is a great idea. Thanks!
... and the orbiter was a great idea as well.
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Also, if you have a small graduated syringe you can economize your testing solution by scaling back the quantities. For example, the nitrate test calls for 5.0 mL tank water + 10 drops #1 + 10 drops of #2. If instead however, you use 2.0 mL's of tank water you only need 4 drops of each for the same result.
Such a good idea!
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I hadn't really thought about scaling back on the quantities, but had considered how annoying it'll be once I run out of the nitrate test solutions. Being the primary test I'm interested in and needing the greatest doses, it's definitely the first that will run out. Getting a graduated cylinder to scale back the test dosage is a great idea. Thanks!
... and the orbiter was a great idea as well.
No prob! You can get a plastic graduated syringe from the pharmacy or online at Dr. Fosters. For best accuracy, I'd recommend the smallest size you can find for the volume you're measuring. I use 2.0 mL of tank water when I test, measured via 3.0 mL syringe.