Michigan Cichlid Association
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: breaktime on January 28, 2014, 06:43:49 PM
-
I have 3 fish scraping against the sand in the tank. I dont see white spots yet to indicate ich. The 3 fish are eating well, and are active. I'll continue to monitor but I'd like to try to head off whatever this is.
Also I have some algae on top of the rocks closest to the water surface that is green. I also see spots that are tanish in color, further down the rock. What steps do you recommend, pull rocks out and soak in bleach and water? How much bleach per gallon of water is used?
-
Leave the algae alone, it's a sign of a healthy tank.
-
Leave the algae alone, it's a sign of a healthy tank.
Excellent I'm glad I posted about it.
-
My fish just started to do the same thing. I started treating with nox ich just in case, but only half the dose
-
I heard the chlorine in the water has increased alot the last week or so. Could try more treatment if you have city water.
-
Thats not a bad idea. I usually overdose on the dechlorinator but I'll throw some in for extra measure.
-
Thats not a bad idea. I usually overdose on the dechlorinator but I'll throw some in for extra measure.
When did you do a water change last? Chlorine evaporates on it's own over about 24 hours.
-
Last water change was last Friday. I have sliding glass top that are opened about an inch then I have the wood hood on top of that closed. I would imagine my evaporation is minimal compared to an open top aquarium. Now my sump is completely opened up, where chlorine would evaporate the most. Probably chlorine wouldn't be my problem. Now should I start bumping up the temp in my tank in case it's ich? Right now I'm about 79 degrees.
-
Wouldn't hurt to bump up the temp for a few days as a precautionary measure. It wont hurt the fish and could save an issue of an ich outbreak.
-
Question: Do you notice the flashing more after or before you feed the fish ?
It is common for fish to flash after a feeding....
-
Question: Do you notice the flashing more after or before you feed the fish ?
It is common for fish to flash after a feeding....
Never heard this before.
None of mine do that.
-
Question: Do you notice the flashing more after or before you feed the fish ?
It is common for fish to flash after a feeding....
Never heard this before.
None of mine do that.
I read up on it one time and put that tidbit into memory ! lol
-
Question: Do you notice the flashing more after or before you feed the fish ?
It is common for fish to flash after a feeding....
Never heard this before.
None of mine do that.
I read up on it one time and put that tidbit into memory ! lol
Mine do that sometimes when they are trying to stir up food off of the bottom during feeding.
-
I have 3 fish scraping against the sand in the tank. I dont see white spots yet to indicate ich. The 3 fish are eating well, and are active. I'll continue to monitor but I'd like to try to head off whatever this is.
Also I have some algae on top of the rocks closest to the water surface that is green. I also see spots that are tanish in color, further down the rock. What steps do you recommend, pull rocks out and soak in bleach and water? How much bleach per gallon of water is used?
Flashing can be from numerous things. Most common cause is a fluctuation in Gh for some reason. But also can be from poor water quality...
When was the last time that you thuroughly vacuumed your substrate and/ or maintained your Filtration System?
-
Andrew beat me too it. But more then likely thats the issue.
-
I have 3 fish scraping against the sand in the tank. I dont see white spots yet to indicate ich. The 3 fish are eating well, and are active. I'll continue to monitor but I'd like to try to head off whatever this is.
Also I have some algae on top of the rocks closest to the water surface that is green. I also see spots that are tanish in color, further down the rock. What steps do you recommend, pull rocks out and soak in bleach and water? How much bleach per gallon of water is used?
Flashing can be from numerous things. Most common cause is a fluctuation in Gh for some reason. But also can be from poor water quality...
When was the last time that you thuroughly vacuumed your substrate and/ or maintained your Filtration System?
My 125 gal tank has been running for a month and I'm using wet dry filtration in a sump. the last time I thoroughly vaccumed was last week. Now my tank seems cloudy today so I am going to replaced the filters and do a water within the next 2 days.
-
Most common cause is a fluctuation in Gh for some reason.
I'm guessing you meant PH? Otherwise I'm not sure what GH is.
-
Your water hardness its either called gh or kh. It can reflect on your ph but generally doesn't show it too often.
-
Your water hardness its either called gh or kh. It can reflect on your ph but generally doesn't show it too often.
How do I test for that? I am using city water for the tank. What range should I be in?
-
I do 3.42 on mine with a saliferts test kit. Generally a lfs that does saltwater can test that for you.
-
You can buy a GH/KH test kit at most decent LFS. The one I have is made by API and I actually got mine at a Petsmart surprisingly.
-
My 125 gal tank has been running for a month and I'm using wet dry filtration in a sump. the last time I thoroughly vaccumed was last week. Now my tank seems cloudy today so I am going to replaced the filters and do a water within the next 2 days..
I'm guessing you meant PH? Otherwise I'm not sure what GH is.
a Month???
Could be an ammonia spike. My Suggestions:
-Stop Feeding them for a few days to a week to let the BB Colony catch up.
-Leave Filters running and Do Not change them as you will remove the Built up BB. (cloudiness is a Bacteria Bloom trying to balance the tank out.
-Use a Master Test kit and keep and eye on your Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates as this is a very new tank.
-Do 25% water changes daily and use a Dechlorinator like API Stress Coat, Sea Chem's Prime of Safe.
I also use 1tbsp/10g of Aqaurium Salt and Epsom Salt (Mag-Sulfate) but the ES is more for Raising the Gh as it optimizes Adult African Colors and also Keeps Bowel Movements regular. I have mainly Tropheus...
If you can... Pull some media from an Established tank and rinse it out inside the 125. it will get dirty looking but will clear up in 24hrs and put the nitrogen Cycle in Check! If no other tanks, Head to the Local Fish Store and ask if they can give you a bag or cup of rinse water from a healthy tank of theirs and you can pour that right in the 125g and it will do the same thing.
NOTE:
Gh is for "General hardness" and is basically the mineral content in the water (mainly Magnesium and Calcium though). Africans require between 8-20 (Dutch Scale) or 145ppm (8 x 17.9 clark scale) to 358ppm (20x 17.9 CS)....
Kh stands for Carbonate and Bi-Carbonate hardness and that is basically the buffering capacity of your water. These will absorb harmful acids produced during the nitrogen cycle in times of high waste and insufficient Beneficial bacteria Colony size.
Ph is the level of Alkalinity of the water. 7 is Neutral, 7 is acidic and >7 is basic (alkaline)
-
My 125 gal tank has been running for a month and I'm using wet dry filtration in a sump. the last time I thoroughly vaccumed was last week. Now my tank seems cloudy today so I am going to replaced the filters and do a water within the next 2 days..
I'm guessing you meant PH? Otherwise I'm not sure what GH is.
a Month???
Could be an ammonia spike. My Suggestions:
-Stop Feeding them for a few days to a week to let the BB Colony catch up.
-Leave Filters running and Do Not change them as you will remove the Built up BB. (cloudiness is a Bacteria Bloom trying to balance the tank out.
-Use a Master Test kit and keep and eye on your Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates as this is a very new tank.
-Do 25% water changes daily and use a Dechlorinator like API Stress Coat, Sea Chem's Prime of Safe.
I also use 1tbsp/10g of Aqaurium Salt and Epsom Salt (Mag-Sulfate) but the ES is more for Raising the Gh as it optimizes Adult African Colors and also Keeps Bowel Movements regular. I have mainly Tropheus...
If you can... Pull some media from an Established tank and rinse it out inside the 125. it will get dirty looking but will clear up in 24hrs and put the nitrogen Cycle in Check! If no other tanks, Head to the Local Fish Store and ask if they can give you a bag or cup of rinse water from a healthy tank of theirs and you can pour that right in the 125g and it will do the same thing.
NOTE:
Gh is for "General hardness" and is basically the mineral content in the water (mainly Magnesium and Calcium though). Africans require between 8-20 (Dutch Scale) or 145ppm (8 x 17.9 clark scale) to 358ppm (20x 17.9 CS)....
Kh stands for Carbonate and Bi-Carbonate hardness and that is basically the buffering capacity of your water. These will absorb harmful acids produced during the nitrogen cycle in times of high waste and insufficient Beneficial bacteria Colony size.
Ph is the level of Alkalinity of the water. 7 is Neutral, 7 is acidic and >7 is basic (alkaline)
I do water changes once a week usually 50% last week 25%. My last water test was 5 days ago Ammonia .25ppm nitrite 0 and Nitrate 20ppm. I use dechlorinator by seachem. I'll do a water test tomorrow to see where things are at and post. Also my wet dry filtration has 2 compartments Top has a polish filter with a courser filter on top of that. Bottom compartment is all bio balls.
-
Yeah, a fully cycled and healthy established tank shouldn't show any NH3 (ammonia) and only NO3 (Nitrates) and even your NO3 is starting to build up. And with a reserve of NH3 on top end, the NO3 will get higher unless removed/ Diluted through a WC. As they and Phosphates can only be removed through Water Changes, Plants or some type of Synthetic material that will absorb it.
-
I have 2 P ics of algae that is growing on my rocks on the top 1/3 and a pic of the wet dry filtration in the sump.
-
Yeah, a fully cycled and healthy established tank shouldn't show any NH3 (ammonia) and only NO3 (Nitrates) and even your NO3 is starting to build up. And with a reserve of NH3 on top end, the NO3 will get higher unless removed/ Diluted through a WC. As they and Phosphates can only be removed through Water Changes, Plants or some type of Synthetic material that will absorb it.
Should I follow the advice you gave eariler? Stop feeding for 3 to 7 days and do 25% water changes?
-
yes!
Until the Nitrogen Cycle is put in check.
-
My 125 gal tank has been running for a month and I'm using wet dry filtration in a sump. the last time I thoroughly vaccumed was last week. Now my tank seems cloudy today so I am going to replaced the filters and do a water within the next 2 days..
I'm guessing you meant PH? Otherwise I'm not sure what GH is.
a Month???
Could be an ammonia spike. My Suggestions:
-Stop Feeding them for a few days to a week to let the BB Colony catch up.
-Leave Filters running and Do Not change them as you will remove the Built up BB. (cloudiness is a Bacteria Bloom trying to balance the tank out.
-Use a Master Test kit and keep and eye on your Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates as this is a very new tank.
-Do 25% water changes daily and use a Dechlorinator like API Stress Coat, Sea Chem's Prime of Safe.
I also use 1tbsp/10g of Aqaurium Salt and Epsom Salt (Mag-Sulfate) but the ES is more for Raising the Gh as it optimizes Adult African Colors and also Keeps Bowel Movements regular. I have mainly Tropheus...
If you can... Pull some media from an Established tank and rinse it out inside the 125. it will get dirty looking but will clear up in 24hrs and put the nitrogen Cycle in Check! If no other tanks, Head to the Local Fish Store and ask if they can give you a bag or cup of rinse water from a healthy tank of theirs and you can pour that right in the 125g and it will do the same thing.
NOTE:
Gh is for "General hardness" and is basically the mineral content in the water (mainly Magnesium and Calcium though). Africans require between 8-20 (Dutch Scale) or 145ppm (8 x 17.9 clark scale) to 358ppm (20x 17.9 CS)....
Kh stands for Carbonate and Bi-Carbonate hardness and that is basically the buffering capacity of your water. These will absorb harmful acids produced during the nitrogen cycle in times of high waste and insufficient Beneficial bacteria Colony size.
Ph is the level of Alkalinity of the water. 7 is Neutral, 7 is acidic and >7 is basic (alkaline)
This is the best description of Gh and Kh I have ever seem, GREAT Job ! Thank you !
-
anyone tell me if the 2 pics i posted of rocks, is the brownish stuff on the rocks algae? I thought algae is green color.
-
anyone tell me if the 2 pics i posted of rocks, is the brownish stuff on the rocks algae? I thought algae is green color.
Algae grows in all shades of green and brown.
You can either just let it grow natural or scrub it off all the time. The only place I scrub algae is on the front and side glass. The rest is left it do what it wants. Plus, some fish graze on it.
Bristle nose plecos are about the only ones that will really eat it and make a noticeable difference. But, thats only a little. Some people talk about dramatic differences, I havent seen it myself. I do notice a difference though.
Direct sunlight is the biggest promoter of algae growth also having your lights on a lot will do the same. But, natural sunlight grows it like crazy.
-
As Ken said both direct sunlight and your aquarium light will promote algae growth, from what I have read and what I have seen posted - the only purpose of an aquarium light (given you do not have a salt water / reef tank) is so you can see the fish. The fish really don't need light. You should only keep your aquarium light on for no longer than 5 - 6 hours a day tops, anything longer is to much light and algae will start to propogate...
-
anyone tell me if the 2 pics i posted of rocks, is the brownish stuff on the rocks algae? I thought algae is green color.
That looks like diatoms, it's very common in a newly set up tank (you said your has only been up 1 month correct?) pretty much all new tanks get diatoms. After awhile it will usually be replaced with green algae once the tank is well established.
-
I'm guilty of leaving the the light on, at lleast the white and blue color led lights. The aquarium sits against a interior wall approx 15 ft away from a window. The window has wood blinds and faces north and gets very little direct sunlight. I did water tests this morning and NH3 - 0, NO2 - 0, NO3 - 40 . I was expecting higher numbers for the first 2 tests. I will be doing a 25% water change today and wait and see how things go. Tomorrow will be day 3 and if the test results for ammonia and nitrites stay at zero I will lightly feed the fish. Thank you for everyone's input very much appreciated.
-
WOW, you Nitrates are pretty high. but it looks like the nitrogen cycle is plateauing which is good.
I would probably do a 50% water change at this point. If you do 25% you're only diluting the 40ppm by 25% or only bring it down, in theory, by 10ppm which would be 30ppm and that's still to high for another week. it will probably go up to something around 50+ in a week at this point. better to get ahead of it while you can and just leave the filtration alone. That will keep the end result of the nitrogen cycle in check (the nitrates) and allow the beneficial bacteria colony to keep growing without being disturbed.
@ Maze-n-blue,
Glad you thought well of the description. ;D
-
WOW, you Nitrates are pretty high. but it looks like the nitrogen cycle is plateauing which is good.
I would probably do a 50% water change at this point. If you do 25% you're only diluting the 40ppm by 25% or only bring it down, in theory, by 10ppm which would be 30ppm and that's still to high for another week. it will probably go up to something around 50+ in a week at this point. better to get ahead of it while you can and just leave the filtration alone. That will keep the end result of the nitrogen cycle in check (the nitrates) and allow the beneficial bacteria colony to keep growing without being disturbed.
Doing a 50% water change was my gut feeling to but I figured I'd post the numbers first and see what response I'd get. I'm going to give the tank a good vacuum also. I looked in my sump and it's dirty down. There too. I have little white growths, I'll post a pic maybe someone can tell me what it is.
-
No , Don't Vacuum the Substrate!? :o
You want Just do a Water change! Don't disturb the Bacteria Colony anymore than you have at this point.
Maybe only even clean the front glass and not the others, only if you need to.
Beneficial Bacteria grows on ever surface in an aquatic environment. Including the Substrate. This is why whole water column movement is so important as the BB in the substrate and on every other surface will get slow and constant exposure during the regular cycling of the tank and prove to be really helpful.
The most efficient setup that someone could have would be a UGF system that has power heads facing down into the standpipes to push water down and under and then up through the substrate to move waste off of it and into the water column and then a mechanical filter. The Surface area of substrate for the BB colony is ridiculous! water would always be crystal clear.
-
No , Don't Vacuum the Substrate!? :o
You want Just do a Water change! Don't disturb the Bacteria Colony anymore than you have at this point.
Maybe only even clean the front glass and not the others, only if you need to.
Beneficial Bacteria grows on ever surface in an aquatic environment. Including the Substrate. This is why whole water column movement is so important as the BB in the substrate and on every other surface will get slow and constant exposure during the regular cycling of the tank and prove to be really helpful.
The most efficient setup that someone could have would be a UGF system that has power heads facing down into the standpipes to push water down and under and then up through the substrate to move waste off of it and into the water column and then a mechanical filter. The Surface area of substrate for the BB colony is ridiculous! water would always be crystal clear.
Where were you when I was setting the tank up ;D
Ok I'll just remove the water then. Good thing I checked here first!
-
Just an update, the water is crystal clear since I Changed 60% of the water in the tank and all the water in the sump. I also increased my pump to max output even though it noiser in the overflow. Since I've done that I havent seen any fish scraping against the sand. I do have a star sapphire who isnt eating. This is probably the 4 th fish to act this way. I dont know if this is because of bullying from other fish or something that I have to treat. Ive been watching him for a couple days now. Could it be bloat ? I will pull the fish and put him in my 20 long to see if he eats in there. Thanks for all the input as usual, Im learning alot and appreciative for all the help.
-
Sorry if this was asked already...
City water or well water? Using any treatment?
-
Sorry if this was asked already...
City water or well water? Using any treatment?
No Problem, I use city water and I put prime to treat it. I've been meaning to ask about using a carborn filter. It that something thats used all the time or only when you think theres a problem.
-
Have you tested your water to see if it is exceptionally high in anything? City water can vary a lot.
I use carbon... a lot say that it isnt needed after a tank is established.
That being said... I still use it. Buy it in bulk and change it once a month or so. Its cheap. If it helps to keep the water clear... I am all for it.
-
Have you tested your water to see if it is exceptionally high in anything? City water can vary a lot.
I use carbon... a lot say that it isnt needed after a tank is established.
That being said... I still use it. Buy it in bulk and change it once a month or so. Its cheap. If it helps to keep the water clear... I am all for it.
Other than testing for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates I havent tested for anything else. I'm not sure where I would take a sample to have it tested.
Which brand do you use and where do you get it from?
-
Other than testing for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates I havent tested for anything else. I'm not sure where I would take a sample to have it tested.
Which brand do you use and where do you get it from?
[/quote]
IMO - You should be testing for PH as well ! A dramatic change in PH (either up or down) is very detrimental to your fish..
-
Other than testing for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates I havent tested for anything else. I'm not sure where I would take a sample to have it tested.
Which brand do you use and where do you get it from?
IMO - You should be testing for PH as well ! A dramatic change in PH (either up or down) is very detrimental to your fish..
[/quote]
I bought a hana temp and ph tester but im waiting for the solution to calibrate it. I can do an api ph test to see where im at. I've done a couple but nothing in the last couple weeks. Last time I did one one it was approx 8.
-
Other than testing for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates I havent tested for anything else. I'm not sure where I would take a sample to have it tested.
Which brand do you use and where do you get it from?
IMO - You should be testing for PH as well ! A dramatic change in PH (either up or down) is very detrimental to your fish..
[/quote]
This is why I tell people how important that it is to have the proper substrate or at least use some type of buffer. Whether it be baking soda epsom salts or something more autonomous like Aragonite that will buffer the water.
Ph and even Gh are not as important to worry about as Kh which is level of Carbonates and bi-carbonates in the water. Carbonates and Bi-carbonates absorbed harmful acids produced during the nitrogen cycle. Without that capability of the water, even mild adjustemtns of Ammonia can cause a shift in Ph which then makes the ammonia spike that much more dangerous. So what the Kh does is absorbe those affecting acids and keeps the Ph stable during an ammonia spike, if there ever is one.
As most people know already, ammonia spikes can happen in very established tank for numerous reasons. So take the appropraite measures to be prepared in such a case by creating the proper Kh level in your (people in general) african cichlid tanks.
-
But a buffer wont help with a city water spike of whatever... just wanted to point that out.
-
But a buffer wont help with a city water spike of whatever... just wanted to point that out.
CIty water spike of what?
If they dump in more chlorine because of a water main break or high level or that would affect some type of drain off that would be take care of through de-chlorinator.
I don't think that add more Ammonia to the water for any reason as they take that right to the Government allowable max from the beginning.
-
Other than testing for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates I havent tested for anything else. I'm not sure where I would take a sample to have it tested.
Which brand do you use and where do you get it from?
IMO - You should be testing for PH as well ! A dramatic change in PH (either up or down) is very detrimental to your fish..
[/quote
This is why I tell people how important that it is to have the proper substrate or at least use some type of buffer. Whether it be baking soda epsom salts or something more autonomous like Aragonite that will buffer the water.
Ph and even Gh are not as important to worry about as Kh which is level of Carbonates and bi-carbonates in the water. Carbonates and Bi-carbonates absorbed harmful acids produced during the nitrogen cycle. Without that capability of the water, even mild adjustemtns of Ammonia can cause a shift in Ph which then makes the ammonia spike that much more dangerous. So what the Kh does is absorbe those affecting acids and keeps the Ph stable during an ammonia spike, if there ever is one.
As most people know already, ammonia spikes can happen in very established tank for numerous reasons. So take the appropraite measures to be prepared in such a case by creating the proper Kh level in your (people in general) african cichlid tanks.
I have Texas holy rock and cichlid sand that's suppose to buffer the water. I order a gh kh tester by API to see where I'm at
-
My city water where I live in the last three weeks shot up from 7.8 to over 9. After it sits over night it drops back to 7.8. Not sure what chemicals they are adding or what changed. Before I realized this I did a water change and my fish all began to flash and rub from the rapid fluxuation in ph. Now I realize how important it is to check ph often.
-
My city water where I live in the last three weeks shot up from 7.8 to over 9. After it sits over night it drops back to 7.8. Not sure what chemicals they are adding or what changed. Before I realized this I did a water change and my fish all began to flash and rub from the rapid fluxuation in ph. Now I realize how important it is to check ph often.
Not completely aure what is being said here.
So youre saying over the course of the last 3 weeks your Ph from the tap has risen that much? But then overnight but drops back down? Do you an old test kit or are you using the dip strips? Its not typical that city tap water will do this.
If that is the case you might want to think about a water holding reservoir to fill the day before you do your weekly partial..... that way it has time to drop before adding it to the tank. That constant fluctuation cant be good for the fish.
Its very rare that see flashing in any of my tanks... unless Im intentionally changing the Gh.
Rule of thumb is:
Consistency is Key!
-
How do you raise KH level in the tank?
epsom salt raises GH correct
-
How do you raise KH level in the tank?
epsom salt raises GH correct
baking soda or just do what I do and use Aragonite. But some people think that you still need to use Baking soda for the water change as when the water is buffered during the week and then partially removed and lower Kh water is added back in, it lowers the Kh, which is does, but it's only Carbonates and Bi-carbonates and will not affect the fish directly like Gh does...
-
How do you raise KH level in the tank?
epsom salt raises GH correct
baking soda or just do what I do and use Aragonite. But some people think that you still need to use Baking soda for the water change as when the water is buffered during the week and then partially removed and lower Kh water is added back in, it lowers the Kh, which is does, but it's only Carbonates and Bi-carbonates and will not affect the fish directly like Gh does...
I have Caribsea cichlid sand in the tank is that the samething as Aragonite?
-
I think that stuff is made from the same stuff. That should be good.
-
My 125 gal tank has been running for a month and I'm using wet dry filtration in a sump. the last time I thoroughly vaccumed was last week. Now my tank seems cloudy today so I am going to replaced the filters and do a water within the next 2 days..
I'm guessing you meant PH? Otherwise I'm not sure what GH is.
a Month???
Could be an ammonia spike. My Suggestions:
-Stop Feeding them for a few days to a week to let the BB Colony catch up.
-Leave Filters running and Do Not change them as you will remove the Built up BB. (cloudiness is a Bacteria Bloom trying to balance the tank out.
-Use a Master Test kit and keep and eye on your Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates as this is a very new tank.
-Do 25% water changes daily and use a Dechlorinator like API Stress Coat, Sea Chem's Prime of Safe.
I also use 1tbsp/10g of Aqaurium Salt and Epsom Salt (Mag-Sulfate) but the ES is more for Raising the Gh as it optimizes Adult African Colors and also Keeps Bowel Movements regular. I have mainly Tropheus...
If you can... Pull some media from an Established tank and rinse it out inside the 125. it will get dirty looking but will clear up in 24hrs and put the nitrogen Cycle in Check! If no other tanks, Head to the Local Fish Store and ask if they can give you a bag or cup of rinse water from a healthy tank of theirs and you can pour that right in the 125g and it will do the same thing.
NOTE:
Gh is for "General hardness" and is basically the mineral content in the water (mainly Magnesium and Calcium though). Africans require between 8-20 (Dutch Scale) or 145ppm (8 x 17.9 clark scale) to 358ppm (20x 17.9 CS)....
Kh stands for Carbonate and Bi-Carbonate hardness and that is basically the buffering capacity of your water. These will absorb harmful acids produced during the nitrogen cycle in times of high waste and insufficient Beneficial bacteria Colony size.
Ph is the level of Alkalinity of the water. 7 is Neutral, 7 is acidic and >7 is basic (alkaline)
Ok my test results are for the gh 161 and kh 107 using the api test kit. What an ordeal to find that 5 pet stores finally found it at critters. Ph with my hand tester is 7.95 but I haven't calibrated it yet. I will do that when I test the boiler water at work. API test kit approx 8 -8.2 for ph.
-
Good Deal. You are at the low end for Lake Tanganyika but being that you don't have Wild Caught, they'll be fine.
I think that I would get the Kh up a bit for sure.
-
Good Deal. You are at the low end for Lake Tanganyika but being that you don't have Wild Caught, they'll be fine.
I think that I would get the Kh up a bit for sure.
How exactly do I do that? :o. Should I take it to the 300's?
-
Nah.
Did you say that you use aragonite or Crushed coral?
CaribSea Aragonite will take it up to about 9. You're not yet to 6. That's about all I would do.
Petsmart.com has 40lbs bags for $27 and free shipping after $60. So get two and some filter media or something and you'll have a great deal!
-
Unless your water is way off in one department... I say, do not add anything.
Take this one from experience... the fish will adapt to minor differences in the water. But, once you started adding all kinds of things to get "perfect cichlid water", you create more issues that you solve.
-
Not with Aragonite.
And if you take the appropriate steps to ensure accurate dosages with say, Epsom salt and Baking soda, there will be no fluctuations in anything and Consistency will prevail. Kh will do nothing but help and that fluctuating a bit is not going to affect anything except the stability of the water during times of Ammonia spikes. Carbonates and Bi-Carbonates do one thing. They absorb harmful acids to protect the Ph balance in the water from changing.
-
Not with Aragonite.
And if you take the appropriate steps to ensure accurate dosages with say, Epsom salt and Baking soda, there will be no fluctuations in anything and Consistency will prevail. Kh will do nothing but help and that fluctuating a bit is not going to affect anything except the stability of the water during times of Ammonia spikes. Carbonates and Bi-Carbonates do one thing. They absorb harmful acids to protect the Ph balance in the water from changing.
I'm going to hold off on adding sand because I've did such a big water change I want the sand and texas holy rock to catch up and see if the KH comes up on its own. A side note for those that use the API test kits. When you compare the tube color with the the card to see what the test results are, do you lay the tube on the white part of the card or stand the tube on the card. I've seen both ways.