Michigan Cichlid Association
General Category => Old World => Topic started by: jwalser18 on June 07, 2013, 02:08:23 PM
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So, out the tap my water is like 8.0+
Will this be to hard for mbuna's? like it might even be higher.. Tested with the api test i was up to like 60 drops and got bored.
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60 drops!?!?!?!?!?!
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I have an old school api test kit.. I tested water with mine and a brand new one.. same readings.. so I returned the new one. yeah It's like keep doing drops until it gets to this shade of color (i forget) maybe not 60.. but I remember at least 30+..
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Are we talking pH or hardness?
For the hardness you put in drops until it changes color. For pH, you put in a certain number of drops and match the color on the chart.
:o
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Are we talking pH or hardness?
For the hardness you put in drops until it changes color. For pH, you put in a certain number of drops and match the color on the chart.
:o
I had the same thoughts, but believe the 8.0 mentioned is in "dGH" units.
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I'm in the office.. once I get home I'll figure out which it was.
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okay, def was doing the wrong test :o oops! water is at 8.3~
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my water is 8.6 so I used Seacams Discus Bufer to bring it down to 7.0-7.3 for raising Angels
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okay, def was doing the wrong test :o oops! water is at 8.3~
That kind if fish?
Are you still concerned?
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no 8.3 is fine. I must have read the wrong test, lol.
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I'll be honest, I'm kind of Confused here...
Gh (General hardness) will have the most affect on the Vibrancy of the African Cichlids Color and should be between 160-320 (clark scale)
If we are talking Gh Then 8.3 is not that high. If you multiply this factor by 17.9 Clark Scale units/ Degree your waters Gh is 148-149...
If you are talking Ph, that is not hardness at all. That is Alkalinity of your water.
Kh (Carbonate Hardness) is the measure of Carbonates and Bi-carbonates in the water that ultimately provide buffering capacity of the water. Or the ability to absorb acids to keep the Ph stable in times of ammonia spikes.
Hope this helps.