Michigan Cichlid Association
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: four_by_ken on February 13, 2013, 06:51:38 PM
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I think it's bloat... but I don't feed that much. I feed Omega One Super Veggie and NLS. Recently added NLS Thera A.
A while ago I lost some some peacocks. Them recently a Mloto. Now I have a bloated Demasonia. Now this peacock looks like shit.
Oh and a handful of Victorians, I am done with them.
It starts by breathing hard and follows any times with a fat belly, but not always.
And they stop eating.
Waaaay back I treated for parasites and didn't seem to eloquence. All water levels are good.
This has to stop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyosjYMkhP0&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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where are these fish coming from? Do you quarantine? What are your water parameters? How long has the tank been running?
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Fish are from all over the place.
No quarantine. Usually happens weeks after having the fish.
Water is hard, nitrates and nitrites are VERY low. Weekly water changes.
Feeding once a day.
Add cichlid salt to harden water because of water softener. House is on well water.
Also add Cichild buffer for KH.
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Fish are from all over the place.
Add cichlid salt to harden water because of water softener. House is on well water.
Also add Cichild buffer for KH.
Doesn't the water softner ADD salt to the water? plus you are adding salt. Wouldn't that start to make the water brackish?
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If it was me, I'd stop with the additives and slow down on the water changes. Try adding some live plants too.
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I would try to get your water source from a faucet or connection between the external water and the water softner. Where I lived before, Iowa, the water was extremely hard and would tear up the hot water heater. Some people would hook up the water softner so it would only feed the hot water. This would make it so the cold water could still be used for cooking and drinking. May be the fish don't like the softened water. You could try this, or use bottled water for a few water changes.
Good luck
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IMO....
Stop with the extra salt.
Stop with the cichlid buffer.
What size water changes are you doing weekly? Without knowing your stocking rate and tank size, I'll suggest that 40% is sufficient.
Fish should always be hungry. If they aren't, they are overfed and unhealthy. I feed 1-2 times per day depending on the day and occasionally skip a day. I feed enough that they've usually consumed everything within 30 seconds or so, sometimes less.
If the Omega One smells rank, I'd stop using it and see if things improve.
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All that mentioned, this could be stress induced if you've got fish bullying the individuals that keep getting sick. If that's the case, either move the bully, overcrowd them more so one fish isn't getting the brunt of the harassment, or re-aquascape to break up the tank into additional territories.
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check to see if there's a bypass valve for the water softener -- my current house has one immediately before the softener -- its a push/pull valve, which can divert the water around the system. when its out, water from the well flows thru softener, when its pushed in the water from well bypasses softener and diverts directly into the "out" water line from the softener. i think most systems have a bypass, if installed by a professional.
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i think most systems have a bypass, if installed by a professional.
Or if the homeowner is an aquarist. ;)
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If you're water softening system uses potassium, that could be another issue. (It's poisonous to fish. Growing up my parents used "K-Life" and I had to buy water from the store to keep an aquarium going.
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If you're water softening system uses potassium, that could be another issue. (It's poisonous to fish. Growing up my parents used "K-Life" and I had to buy water from the store to keep an aquarium going.
I don't think He's a water softening system. ;)
I agree with Ron.... stop using all the bullshit additives.
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I just went thru this last week. I determined that by adding in Proper PH 8.2, I spiked my PH thus causing a similar symptom in my fish. Heavy breathing, lurking in one spot on the bottom, stopped eating - THEN DIED.
I would agree - STOP adding in the Buffer. Test your PH frequently, leave the tank alone hold off on the water changes until you see your fish stablize. I WILL NOT be adding anything other than some SALT after doing a WC. My tank is doing fine and I am now starting to restock. The new fish are also doing fine...
It's a tough lesson to learn, but one that most everyone experiences.
Good Luck and I hope this issue clears up quickly. Trust me, I know exactly how you are feeling right now. remember check your PH....
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Ken - One more thing - How did you add in the buffer into the aquarium ? Did you just add the powder into the aquarium or did you delute it first then add it ? If the former, I believe the powder may have collected in the gills of the fish causing the gills of the fish to get burned. When this happens the fish cannot breath and will show these same symptoms. I know this because this is what I did. The powder dispersed throughout the entire aquarium and the fish breathed it into thier gills.....Just a thought....
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When I set the tank up last fall… I was using non softened water in 5 gallon buckets and leaving it in the sunlight to warm up. I had a couple fish die, but nothing drastic.
Then cold weather hit and I had to start using hot water for water changes. Then it seems that more fish were dying. So, I had my water tested and all levels were perfect, except for the hardness. They knew the second they did the test that I used a water softener. And as they said… it is doing a GREAT job. There was literally NO hardness to the water. This is the only reason I am using the salt and buffer… to get the GH and KH up to bearable levels. All other levels are perfect.
So, I don’t think that just not adding anything is a good idea.
Things got better, but I still have fish turn up doing this same damn thing. Hard breathing, usually with a bloated stomach, but not always. They also stop eating.
Way back I tossed all the foods I had, except for the Omega One Super Veggie and the NLS. About a month ago I added the NLS Thera A to the diet. I didn’t notice much of a difference. I really do not believe that I over feed.
I have had many many fish tanks and never had any issues like this before. Usually my fish thrive and I have no issues at all.
My tanks go….
140 gallon – mixed Africans, no peacocks
85 gallon – mostly all peacocks and some calvus
40 gallon – Albus and Ruby Peacocks (soon to split the two up into another 40 gallon tank)
20 gallon – Muzi Compressiceps, fry. The Albus were in here for months. No issues.
20 gallon – Ruby Green Hap fry. Months. No issues.
The 85 gallon is where I have had most of the trouble. Now recently a couple in the 140 gallon got “it”
I really would like to set up some water storage tanks that I can fill with pre-softened water. If I do that, I will not need to add much of anything to the water. I just need to figure out how to heat the water.
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Just to add... water quality cant be toooo far off as I have had Mlotos breed in the 140 gallon and also a Rusty Zebra breed multiple times in the 140 gallon.
Then in the 85 gallon I have a Eureka that I thought was a male breed twice and now I have a Sunshine that I thought was a male breed.
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http://greatlakesaquaria.com/index.php?/topic/4740-change-out-your-substrate/ (http://greatlakesaquaria.com/index.php?/topic/4740-change-out-your-substrate/)
Posted 12 February 2013 - 12:11 PM
I wanted to share a short story, and let everyone know how important aquarium substrate is in our hobby. If I only get one reader to change out their substrate, and it saves some fish in the long run it will be worth it.
For about the first five years or so, I battled with water chemistry, ammonia spikes, and unstable pH in the aquarium.
I started my first freshwater tank at 9 years old, and of course I went with the awesome cool looking blue gravel. LOL! Unfortunately when people decide to get into the aquarium hobby, they always make this first terrible mistake. Now, 24 years later I'm still keeping aquarium fish and I have learned a little bit along the way.
The colored aquarium gravel serves absolutely no purpose in your aquarium but looking cool and colored. In my opinion they need to stop selling it. Even the natural looking gravel has absolutely no buffering capability for your aquarium!
You spend quite a bit of money on all of your aquarium equipment, then you spend even more money on fish and aquatic life once it's set up and cycled. Why not spend a few extra bucks and buy substrate that buffers the tank?
Aragonite is the secret substrate that buffers both freshwater and saltwater aquariums! Wait a minute, it's not a secret, they sell it everywhere!
The more Aragonite you have in your aquarium, the higher your pH will be. It buffers the tank, maintains a higher pH, holds beneficial bacteria, and maintains stable water chemistry, granted you keep up on your routine 20-30% water changes.
Rarely do I ever have to add any sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to the aquarium to raise the pH.
I use a mix of Aragonite and Cichlid eco-complete for my desired look.
No problems switching to saltwater either, I have taken a freshwater tank over to a marine tank in a days time,vacuumed out with the python, dumped in my marine salt, two hours later I put in some damsels to cycle the marine tank. The bacteria changes and the Aragonite continues to buffer the aquarium water. Three days later I was adding marine fish and never lost one of them. Of course a skimmer is required about a month later but that's another story.
There is nothing worse than hearing a person whine about their water quality and how they are constantly losing their fish, only to see they have that 7 dollar blue colored gravel from petsmart in their tank.
There are thousands of people who have left the hobby, simply because they were not educated from the beginning and couldn't keep their fish alive. Let's keep people educated, keep people in the hobby, and keep aquatic life alive!
So I'm begging you, please get rid of that hot pink or blue gravel and switch to a form of Aragonite. You will have a buffered tank that is extremely stable, and you can buy me a beer some time for telling you so!
Thanks for reading!
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That should have been a new topic...
I have typical gravel in both tanks. My pH is fine in both tanks. I am adding the buffer to keep KH levels up where they need to be.
One tank is drift wood (the sinking kind) and the other is holy rock,
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Some times fish just die, maybe your just unlucky this month.
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Some times fish just die, maybe your just unlucky this month.
And this is why I dont go to the casino.
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dkock62 is on the right track. But with a few misconceptions...
I use CaribSea's Reef Grade Aragonite Sand for all my Aquariums...
The Aragonite has some major key trace elements in it. Calcium, Carbonate buffer, Strontium, Magnesium, Molybdenum and Potassium...
The Max pH that this stuff will yeild is actually 8.2 which technically, is not as important as the Gh (General Hardness) and Kh (Carbonate Hardness)of the water. More so of Kh. The Kh is actually the buffering capacity of the Water... It's the amount of Carbonates and Bi-carbonates in the water that will maintain proper pH Levels in times of changing acidity (i.e ammonia and nitrate increase). The Gh actually affects the Fishes Colors more so. The reasont hat pH is second to Mainly Kh is because, although Africans being sensitive to changes in pH, the Serverity of the affects of change in pH rise Dramatically if Ammonia levels are higher. So if the water has poor puffering Capapbilities, any change in pH caused from a raise in ammonia levels will that much more lethal to the fish.
I use Aragonite for this purpose. I use API's Aquarium salts as these do a few different things. Salts will aid in slime reproduction which is important during times of stress. It helps aid is parasite and disease prevention. It also aids in proper Gill membrane function!
I also use Epsom salts. Standard stuff, nothing special. it aids in maintaining proper Gh and Kh along with the aragonite but also yeilds better digestive function as it's a natrual laxity (so are peas for fish) and aids in maintianing proper water blalance in the Fishes Cells. Bloat can also be casued from this as well. Not just digestive constipation...
Rasing temps can help with Digestive issues being that higher temps yeilds a faster motabolism in Poikilothermic Eukaryotes (e.g. FISH) But higher temps enduce lower levels of Oxygen so higher Water Surfice turbulence is needed to maintain adiquit O2 levels. Especially considering higher metabolism rates.
And Remember that Any fish that has been subjected to harsh evironments (i.e high levels of acidity [aka: Ammonia levels]), even if once and severe enough, will burn the gill membranes and once recovered will create scare tissue over the Blood Vessels that transfer O2 into their bloodtream. This will subject them to being Even MORE Sensistive to changes in their environment and increasing their chances of dying in any event that a situation like this arrises in the future..
This is why purcashing fish from a breeder who regularly maintains their tanks and cares for them with passion is so important to the hobby.
If poeple buy fish and have a bad experience based on fish that they purcashed from someone that does take very good care of their fish, this leaves a sour opinion of aquatic life keeping...
This is all stuff that will help each individual keeping fish, understand the importance of aquatic processes and keep happier, healthier Fish in the Hobby!
JMTC...
here's a Good link for you guys to read if you get board...
http://www.malawimayhem.com/articles_chemistry_water_chemistry.shtml
Hope this helps!
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This is getting rediculous.
Little Ahli in the 85 gallon. Dead.
Mloto in the 140 now not eating.
Large Strawberry in the 85 gallon now not eating.
Woke up to two dead baby ruby greens, with another on the way out. Have not had a single issue with this tank since we set it up for the ruby green fry 3 months ago.
I am getting ready to say to hell with it.
What the %^&* is going on.
Tested ph again... about 8.2
Its water change night again, so I think I will just add nothing but water.
Really getting ready to quit.
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Take water sample to your lfs
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Take water sample to your lfs
I have taken a sample a couple times to Preuss. First time... everything was perfect, except for hardness.
I have got that under control now.
I am at my wits ends with this.
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I see your adding something to your water changes.What are you adding?
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I see your adding something to your water changes.What are you adding?
Seachem Cichlid Salt and Buffer for adjusting the water hardness. I test the hardness with an API KH and GH test kit. After adding... the tests are at the upper range of the hardness scale, where I was told is what they should be.
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In addition to the cichlid salts, are you still supplying water that's been through the water softener? If so, what are the salinity levels in your tanks?
The only other thing I can think of, is that there may have been some disease or parasite introduced your systems.
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I have treated for parasites before and didnt seem to do anything at all. Plus, I had two fish cut and gutted at Preuss... looked under a microscope and nothing was found.
The water is after the softner. Salinity is about the only thing I didnt test.
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Iam not a fan about using buffers.But this what i would do.Take your buffer get in your sweet ass chevy pickup.Drive to nearest lake,and throw as far as you can.Get back in your sweet ass chevy drive to your lfs.Buy some crush coral and some holy rock.Add to your tank lol
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Are you sure the ones not eating are not getting bullied by other fish? I have had this happen in a few of my mixed species tanks before.
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Iam not a fan about using buffers.But this what i would do.Take your buffer get in your sweet ass chevy pickup.Drive to nearest lake,and throw as far as you can.Get back in your sweet ass chevy drive to your lfs. Buy some crush coral and some holy rock.Add to your tank lol
Just about ready to do this. This would be last attempt and if it didnt work... I dont know. But, I do have a lot of Holy Rock in the 140 gallon. But the majority of the problems are in the 85 gallon that has the drift wood in it.
Are you sure the ones not eating are not getting bullied by other fish? I have had this happen in a few of my mixed species tanks before.
I dont see anything excessive. But, that doens mean it isnt happening.
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Drift wood will lower your Ph. Take it out
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Drift wood will lower your Ph. Take it out
But, it doesnt test low. It is a little lower than other tank, but not LOW.
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What water softener salt do you use?
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What water softener salt do you use?
Culligan.
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Are you using the solar salt only 99.6 % pure, or are you using some of the iron out version salt?
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Are you using the solar salt only 99.6 % pure, or are you using some of the iron out version salt?
Normal stuff. No iron issues with the water.
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I would remove the driftwood as suggested above by Stanrocks.. Are the fish breathing hard ?
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I would remove the driftwood as suggested above by Stanrocks.. Are the fish breathing hard ?
Only the "sick" ones. It is not every fish in the tank. The fish can live for a month or more... then boom... dead.
First they stop eating... then they tend to bloat a little bit, but not always... then they get sluggish and start breathing harder.... then they die.
Some fish have are fine in the tank since it was set up in October... others last a week. Others a month or two.
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I dont really understand taking the drift wood out.
The only thing I have read that is a drift wood issue is that it lowers ph. But, my tests fine. And I am also having this issue with the 180 gallon that has no drift wood in it.
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Wish I could get holy rock cheaper... if I do reset up the tank... thats going to be expensive.
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By the fact the the fish are breathing hard suggests that their gills are getting burned somehow. There are allot of situations that would cause this: frequent ammonia spikes, frequent spikes up or down in the PH levels.
Are you adding any dechlorinators to the water ?
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By the fact the the fish are breathing hard suggests that their gills are getting burned somehow. There are allot of situations that would cause this: frequent ammonia spikes, frequent spikes up or down in the PH levels.
Are you adding any dechlorinators to the water ?
I have well water, which is why I have the softener... no city water... no chlorine... no additives.
Burned gills... never heard this before.
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Salt, salt, salt, salt. Check that salinity. Get a hydrometer, or take a sample back to the LFS, and have them test for salinity. I bet it is way too high.
If you can somehow get water from before your water softener, I would use that water, and start doing water changes now.
Also, check your softener unit and see if it has a bypass, or call culligan, and tell them that you need a bypass put on, for your FRESHWATER aquarium.
Reading this thread from the beginning, I am almost positive that this could be the root problem.
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For the time being just use some smaller landscaping rock until you can get the Holey rock. If you do not have any, I have a ton of it in my backyard, you are welcome to come get some if you wish...
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If your water heater has been running from the softened water and you have a by-pass. How do you get the pre-softened water into the water heater prior to doing a water change ?
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Salt, salt, salt, salt. Check that salinity. Get a hydrometer, or take a sample back to the LFS, and have them test for salinity. I bet it is way too high.
If you can somehow get water from before your water softener, I would use that water, and start doing water changes now.
Also, check your softener unit and see if it has a bypass, or call culligan, and tell them that you need a bypass put on, for your FRESHWATER aquarium.
Reading this thread from the beginning, I am almost positive that this could be the root problem.
Its water change night tonight anyways... so, I will be doing a water change on everything.
I'll stop on the way home and get a test for salinity. I do add more than I was expecting to get the hardness reading up higher.
I was looking at tubs and tanks that I can fill with prior to the softner water.... then I would still have to heat that to get it into the tank. My basement is very cold. But I recently found small electric on demand water heaters. Some you can set the temperature of the water. They are a little over $200. After I add tubs and heaters for the tubs... price would reach over $100 for sure... getting closer to the $200 mark.
Thinking more like that is where I want to go.
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If your water heater has been running from the softened water and you have a by-pass. How do you get the pre-softened water into the water heater prior to doing a water change ?
If I bypassed the softener... I would have to empty the hot water tank, let it refill with non-softened water... heat up... then I could use it. Pain in the ass.
I may do the separate on demand little water heater. Liking that idea more.
Thanks for the offer on the rocks. I have some at home I could use. I just thought the other benefit of the holy rock , other than the holes and looks was the buffering it does.
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For the time being, until you can work out a permanent warm water storage solution, just use a big garbage can, put it right next to the tanks, fill it with water, drop in a heater, and maybe a little water pump for circulation. Once it warms up, just pump it right from the garbage can, to the tanks. When done, put the can in the garage or basement until the next water change.
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Ken, This was posted by Ron when I was having issues with my tank...
Quote from: danielratti on February 03, 2013, 11:12:12 AM
Dont add any fancy crap unless you really feel that you have to.
I kind of wanted to QFT, but that last half I don't agree with. For rift species, never use chemicals to screw with the pH.
If you really feel you need to adjust the pH higher, use a passive means like crushed limestone or some other high pH rock for substrate, decor, or in the filter (doubling also as biomedia like this FWIW). More often than not if I hear of someone using chemicals to adjust pH, it's because they're watching fish die in the process.
With regards to the fish breathing heavy, if their gills were exceptionally red, it could have been ammonia poisoning, as ammonia toxicity increased relative to an increase in pH (and temperature FWIW). To save on time spent typing, here's a couple of references:
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
http://www.thekrib.com/Chemistry/ammonia-toxicity.html
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I dont really understand taking the drift wood out.
The only thing I have read that is a drift wood issue is that it lowers ph. But, my tests fine. And I am also having this issue with the 180 gallon that has no drift wood in it.
I don't think driftwood necessary lowers PH, but rather the GH or KH aspect of hardness/softness of your water. See this for example: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/gh_kh_ph.php (a bit long, but a good start to understanding some of the differences). There's better ones that I've seen but I can't find those explanations right now.
FWIW.
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For the time being, until you can work out a permanent warm water storage solution, just use a big garbage can, put it right next to the tanks, fill it with water, drop in a heater, and maybe a little water pump for circulation. Once it warms up, just pump it right from the garbage can, to the tanks. When done, put the can in the garage or basement until the next water change.
My well water comes out at like 50 degrees. It would take a couple days of having a heater in there to get it warm. Which means I would almost be to the point of adding another 100 gallons of water that I need to heat all the time. Thats why I think the on demand would be a good solution in the long run... even for costs.
Doing the garbage cans... I would need $60 in heaters and have them run constant. Thats $60-$80 closer to the on demand heater.
Ugh...
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Ken, This was posted by Ron when I was having issues with my tank...
Quote from: danielratti on February 03, 2013, 11:12:12 AM
Dont add any fancy crap unless you really feel that you have to.
I kind of wanted to QFT, but that last half I don't agree with. For rift species, never use chemicals to screw with the pH.
If you really feel you need to adjust the pH higher, use a passive means like crushed limestone or some other high pH rock for substrate, decor, or in the filter (doubling also as biomedia like this FWIW). More often than not if I hear of someone using chemicals to adjust pH, it's because they're watching fish die in the process.
With regards to the fish breathing heavy, if their gills were exceptionally red, it could have been ammonia poisoning, as ammonia toxicity increased relative to an increase in pH (and temperature FWIW). To save on time spent typing, here's a couple of references:
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
http://www.thekrib.com/Chemistry/ammonia-toxicity.html
I HATE adding anything to my tanks. The only reason I am adding is for the hardness because I was told that my water was so soft it would cause issues. Now I think what I am adding may be solving one problem, but now causing another one.
I have not added anything specifically for ph.
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I dont really understand taking the drift wood out.
The only thing I have read that is a drift wood issue is that it lowers ph. But, my tests fine. And I am also having this issue with the 180 gallon that has no drift wood in it.
I don't think driftwood necessary lowers PH, but rather the GH or KH aspect of hardness/softness of your water. See this for example: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/gh_kh_ph.php (a bit long, but a good start to understanding some of the differences). There's better ones that I've seen but I can't find those explanations right now.
FWIW.
But my hardness levels dont seem to drop any.
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My well water comes out at like 50 degrees. It would take a couple days of having a heater in there to get it warm. Which means I would almost be to the point of adding another 100 gallons of water that I need to heat all the time. Thats why I think the on demand would be a good solution in the long run... even for costs.
Doing the garbage cans... I would need $60 in heaters and have them run constant. Thats $60-$80 closer to the on demand heater.
Ugh...
Ugh... is right. LOL
But, filling the trash can a few days beforehand, the ambient temp in the house should help quite a bit. And a SMALL temp drop in the tanks should not be a prob for the in tanks water heater to bump it back up. Plus, Like I said, this is just temp until something else can be worked out. This suggestion is just to address the immediate, assumed, high salinity issue.
The on demand water heater is a good idea, but be prepared to replace it on a regular basis. The hard water is going to be rough on it. It would be nice if there was a small on demand water heater, with removable elements, that way they could be cleaned, and extend their life by quite a bit.
I have been down this road before. Indirect water heating was the only way to go in my case, and it's been working great ever since, with zero problems.
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I dont really understand taking the drift wood out.
The only thing I have read that is a drift wood issue is that it lowers ph. But, my tests fine. And I am also having this issue with the 180 gallon that has no drift wood in it.
I don't think driftwood necessary lowers PH, but rather the GH or KH aspect of hardness/softness of your water. See this for example: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/gh_kh_ph.php (a bit long, but a good start to understanding some of the differences). There's better ones that I've seen but I can't find those explanations right now.
FWIW.
But my hardness levels dont seem to drop any.
Then you probably don't have enough driftwood in there to make a noticeable difference, so I would look into some of the other possible causes.
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Well, I stopped last night on the way home to get a hydrometer. All they had was meant for saltwater tanks, as I was expecting. So, it wouldnt read low enough for what I need.
It it were to register on there tester... all my fish would already be dead or much worse looking.
So, I was supposed to bring a water sample to them, as they have a nice fancy digital reader that will work for brackish water tanks also. But... I forgot the water when I left this morning.
Dammit.
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Ken,
This is something that you were supposed to keep to yourself ! Doooo !
Cardinal Rule # 1:
Never ever admit you made a mistake ! "it wasn't me, but sir we have you on tape ! IT WASN'T ME ! You must be mistaken...
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Found the shut off for the water softener. It is built into the sofetner itself. I was looking for a ball valve or something before.
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So, lost another one.
Saturday I did water changes... added nothing to the water and was running water bypassing the softener.
Prior to the water change, pH was at the higher end of the range... maybe a tad too high. Water hardness (KH and GH) were also at the top end of the acceptable scale as that is what I understood was preferred.
So, I think maybe the adding of "stuff" to get it to those levels was hurting more than helping.
Sunday I tested again and pH fell a little bit, I think another water change it will be just right. GH fell quite a bit, but at the lower end of the acceptable levels. KH actually went up! Strange.
All 5 tanks all did the same thing. So, I that makes me feel good. Makes it easier to adjust, etc.
I also tested the water again after having the softener in bypass for a few days now. GH a little low, KH about perfect and was low. So, I think I might be able to get by with minimal additives if I bypass the softener.
I think tomorrow I will do water changes again.
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Moderate the feeding for a while during the new water change program, and you should be fine moving forward. Good luck.
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I sure hope so.
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So, going on 2 weeks? with out using the water softener. Did 2 or 3 water changes to bring things back to a non additive state slowly. Tonight I do another on all the tanks.
Things SEEM to be happier. I have a Lemon Jake (beautiful fish) that I hope will snap out of it and start eating again, and a Electric White that just doesnt seem happy. I think it might be getting bullied.
Anyways... I think we may have happy fish. I have a newly set up tank and have added nothing to it at all. Just plain ol' well water out of the tap. Levels seem pretty good for nothign being added to it. Maybe a LITTLE salt will be added to get the GH up a little.
Wish me luck.
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Glad to hear that things are shaping up, and the losses have stopped.