Michigan Cichlid Association
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Helloitsme on December 14, 2012, 06:01:33 AM
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I'm thinking about changing the filtration on my 60 gallon acrylic "show tank". It currently has 2 AC 70's. It's a bit overstocked at the moment. I need something that's easy to maintain, quiet and moves a lot of water. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Step it up to some 110s
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Wetdry
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For HOB filters, IMO either AC110 or Emp400 - there's no reason to ever get smaller ones.
[I'm not a fan of canister filters, so I've omitted them, but they'd fit in here.]
The next step beyond a HOB army would be a sump and you could incorporate a wet/dry.
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Thanks for your responses thus far. I am not familiar with sumps and wet drys, I am going nto need to do a little research.
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another option and wont break the bank is using 2 hot magnums, they are like canister filters but hang on the back of the tank.
I have a few that I use use and they keep the water crystal clear and make the water move so there there is not a issue of not enough water movement or I agree with Blair aqua clear 110's. That is what I also use
http://www.petco.com/product/2399/Marineland-HOT-Magnum-Hang-On-Tank-Convertible-Canister-Filter.aspx?cm_mmc=CSEMGoogleAdExtProd-_-Fish-_-Marineland-_-590258&mr:trackingCode=0403EC15-8381-DE11-B7F3-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=26560826275&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:filter=51515432155
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Canister filter all the way. IMO they are much better than HOB's yet much easier than having to drill the tank for a sump. I have three canister filters between my two 55g tanks. The all male peacock tank I run an XP4 and a XP3, and the Mbuna tank I run an XP3. They are very easy to set up, don't cost an arm & leg, quiet, move a good deal of water, and you have a huge variety of choices on how to set them up with media.
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Poo on the canisters.... I don't like them & don't like cleaning them even more.
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What is not to like about a canister? :o
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What is not to like about a canister? :o
IME, a PITA to clean and prime.
The HOT doesn't count as a cannister. I have one and like it, though I just use it for spot cleaning. It's great for mechanical filtration, but for an overstocked tank like the OP has, there's just no room for biomedia. Yes, there's an add-on bio-wheel bit, but IMO an Emp400 > HOT when serving for both mechanical and biological filtration.
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I would use Emperor 400's. I use these on all my big tanks 75 gallons or larger. Very easy to maintin and create great turnover. You can get them online from Pet Solutions or Ken's Fish pretty reasonable.
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IME, a PITA to clean and prime.
I know everyone likes different things and I'm fine with that, but I just can't see how cleaning or priming could ever be considered a pain unless there on canisters out there than are different than my XP3 and XP4 when it comes to cleaning & priming. On my Rena's to clean all you do is unlatch four clips, pull the basket out and rinse with tank water. Don't see how it could be easier than that. And to prime you only have to prime it once when you first get it because when you unlatch the lid it seals the prime in the tubes. If you ever need to prime it again then all you do is open the cap on the tube and pour water into it 2 mins before you plug it in. Again super simple.
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I have an Eheim Professional II that is the same way. It has a locking valve that you have to lift to disconnect the hoses from the canister. You just clean it out, fill with water, reattach the top and then the hoses and turn it on.
I have had several Fluval canisters that were a pain, but I'd recommend this brand to anyone.
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I loove my Fluval canisters.
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I have had several Fluval canisters that were a pain, but I'd recommend this brand to anyone.
Fluval could be the reason I am anti-canister. It could also be that it's because I change my filter media while doing water changes. It convenient to do them while I'm babysitting the hose either filling or draining tanks.
IME, I can't remove the top of the unit without at least a little water spilling, so I have to do all maintenance over a tub. There's also a lot of nasty water at the bottom, so I have to remove all media from the unit every time. Then despite topping the canister off, once I reconnect the hoses 1/2 the time it'll prime nicely and 1/2 the time it won't. However, 100% of the time I have to rotate it about the vertical axis to help the bubbles work themselves out if I want it to be perfectly silent. :-\
... vs HOB Emp 400s - I flip a switch on a power bar, they all turn off, drain the media containers, replace filter floss in said containers, drop them in, and flip the switch back on for all filters once the tanks are refilled. :D
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However, 100% of the time I have to rotate it about the vertical axis to help the bubbles work themselves out if I want it to be perfectly silent.
I can see where that would be a pain. I have not owned a Fluval so I don't have experience with them. On the Rena though all you have to do to purge any air and fill the canister up after cleaning is once you put the top back on you just pop one of the four top latches and that breaks the seal and the air rushes out and water rushes in. Takes about 2 seconds and your refilled and good to go 8)
I don't have anything against HOB's...I have a couple as well for my 10-29g tanks. I've just been super happy with the Rena canisters is all.
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I appreciate all the input. I have used Emperor filters in the past and did not like them. Keep offering your opinions as I have yet to make any sort of decision.
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Wet dry is the way to go since you have a over stocked tank. You also do not need to drill your tank as someone mentioned you can get a hob overflow same concept of drilling the tank but not drilling the tank.
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You also do not need to drill your tank as someone mentioned you can get a hob overflow same concept of drilling the tank but not drilling the tank.
I've seen those before but I always heard that the issues with those were if the power were to fail then they will overflow into the room because of the syphon effect. Is that true? Because I plan on getting a 6'-8' tank after the holidays and use a 55g as a sump so some of this info will help me as well soon.
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No if you set them up right. How it works there will be a skimmer box inside of your tank that will connect to the part that hangs over the tank this is where you will have a bulk head that will connect down into your sump. Now how you get a siphon going is by using a u-tube this is where fine ajusting will take place as well since there will be a small nylon nut and screw to adjust the skimmer box up and down to allow different spacing for the u-tube to siphon water. To prime the u-tube you place airline hose to where the bend is in the u tube then place the u tube in the overflow then turn your return pump on during this process you want to suck the air out of the u tube with the airline hose this will cause the u tube to create a siphon. After you have that siphon created you hold the u tube in place and pull the air line out slowly. This siphon on the u tube should not break if done correctly when the power is to go out. so once power kicks back on your pump should start as well and keep the process going with out having to re-prime the u tube.
Next thing to do is make a siphon break hole in your return you can either use a diffuser or make one yourself with pvc pipe. This is where people get the flooding issue its something that cannot be stressed enough. If you do not make this break as a point where you feel comfortable with it will create a back siphon and drain the water in your tank to the end of where your return is. How you decide where to make your hole is you shut your pump off and mark a area you feel comfortable with where you let enough water drain out to where its not flooding your sump.
Its not that hard here is a video to give you a visual and a better idea what Im talking about since I feel as i may confuse some people since im tired and confused myself as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd9tPTM7s0c
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By a new FX5 it will be the only one you need!
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Thanks all, I think I may go shopping tomorrow...
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That's some good info danielratti thanks.
Helloitsme- sorry, I hope I didn't derail your post too much on ya ;)
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Nah, Steve it's cool. I learned some things from the ?'s you asked and the corresponding answers.
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Poo on the canisters.... I don't like them & don't like cleaning them even more.
+1!
I have a RenaXP too. What I dont like about it is that its SO heavy when I need to lift it out of the stand and its so bulky (doesnt fit in the sink) I end up with poop water all over my counter and splashed all over. Gross!! When its summer, i can haul the beast outside to clean it, but all winter it SUCKS!! then it never primes properly. It takes a few days to get all the air out of it (but I'll try popping one of the clips, so thx for the tip!) and within a few weeks, I can tell its starting to clog. HOB's are so much easier to clean since you only have to remove the media and the media is smaller and easier to rinse more often. Just my experience... I wont put a cannister on another tank EVER!
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For your tank Chuck, if you've been happy with your AquaClear filters then I totally agree with Blair, I would just go with AC-110's.
IMO they are 10-fold better than Emperor 400's. I wouldn't take a brand new Emp 400 for free, but that's my experience with both brands. And as I already stated, if you've been satisfied with the AC-70's, just go up in size and stay happy.
Also, you already know the workings of the AC's and how easy they are to maintain. The 110's are identical to the 70's except for size. Everything goes together the same way.
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Yeah, I think I'm going to add an AC110. I'm just going to have to start cleaning more often and step up the water changes and maybe rehome some of the fish. Thanks again for all the input.