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Step by step how to make a 3D background

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Steve:
Starting this post because I have a 90g tank for a person that I am about to start building a complete 3D background for today. I know some people have asked how I make them so I figured I'd do a complete step by step with full photos on this build with materials list and tools etc etc to show everyone how it is done. I figure maybe it would perhaps be something we could pin to the DIY forum here so any member that wanted to do one for themselves could have that info on the site?

Will be updating this post starting today as I gather all the materials and start taking pictures/ listing the steps and progress.

Steve:
Okay here we go.

Step 1...Decide which method you want to go for coating the background. Drylok or cement. I will be using (and suggest to anyone else) to use Drylok for a number of reasons. First off it is MUCH easier to use than cement. It can be applied quickly, in coats with a brush, and does not make anywhere near the mess cement makes. Also since Drylok goes on in thin coats you won't lose the fine details that you will lose when using cement. You don;t want to put hours of work into making a foam background look like the texture of real rock only to have all that detail work wiped out into a smooth thick coat of cement. So for those reasons I suggest Drylok. And as a bonus, Drylok lasts longer than cement in the tank as well. Many people have had cement BG's crack after a couple years, but I have yet to see a Drylok coated BG have issues. My oldest one is now 2 years in the tank and looks just as good today as the day I installed it.

So now that you have chose Drylok you need to get the foam. The only thing to beware off with foam is to realize that "some" foam board contains mildew inhibitors. Normally if it does contain it they will state it right on the foam itself. To avoid the chance simply use the foam board I use from Lowes which is the green board R rated. 1" 4x8ft sheet is only $15, or about $25 for the 2" thick one. For this project I will be using 1" mainly to avoid taking up too much swimming room for the new owners colony of Trophs he will be putting in the 90g tank.

Pics of the Drylok you want and the foam board-




More to come....

Steve:
Had a bit of actual "work" get in the way for a few days (damn that W- word) but should be back on this Monday and hope to conclude the step by steps and have the finished product with in the next 10 days or so.

Ron:
No rush - patiently following alone.  ;)

Steve:
Okay finally got some orders done and out of the way and back on this now.

The next step is to cut a panel of styro to cover the whole back of the tank. Normally depending on the size of the tank (and how many center braces it has) you will have to do it in two or more pieces. Obviously smaller tanks like 10, 20, 29's can be done in one piece which is nice. But larger tanks with a center brace will need to be done in two pieces unless you want to remove the top trim before hand. I have done that as well in the past and that's not a real fun job.

This tank here has an overflow so it will require not only doing the back piece in two sections, but it will also require a little bit more creativity to make it so the overflow housing blends into the background, yet not obstruct the overflow opening. It will be done by butting up the foam tight to the overflow, matching the overflow color to the background color, and then actually siliconing carved out fake rocks to the overflow housing to match the background (but more on that when we get to that step).

For now just focus on getting the back panels cut and dry fitted nice and tight. This seems like an easy step, and it is for the most part, but it is VERY important to make sure you fit it tight against the sides of the tank. If you leaves small gaps then that will create two problems. First one is it leaves an area for small fish like plecos to get into and get wedged, and you don;t want that. Secondly if you have gaps then that creates the need to fill the gaps  with silicone, and drylok/paint will not adhere to silicone very well so you will not be able to hide the gaps properly. So take your time and cut it a little tight the first time, you can always sand the edges to make it fit better.

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